Ise-ebi, the bounty of Ago Bay
Of all the many gastronomic delights of Ise-Shima, the first that springs to mind is the spiny lobster, for which the region is famous. Caught locally since ancient times, it is known throughout Japan as “Ise-ebi” (Ise prawn). From its earliest appearance in written records, it has been prized as a delicacy and given as a gift. It is also considered an auspicious food, and was regarded by the samurai as a symbol of valour, punning on the name Ise-ebi and the phrase isei ga yoi (spirited). It also features in New Year decorations as a symbol of eternal youth and longevity.
Setting aside this historical background, the most important thing about the Ise-ebi is that it’s delicious, with incomparable depth of flavour. To safeguard this precious fisheries resource, the Ise-Shima region enforces a strict ban on fishing during the spawning season (May to September). When the fishing season begins, in October, freshly caught Ise-ebi are offered up to the gods at Ise Jingu.
Though named after the Ise-Shima region, the Japanese spiny lobster is fished around Japan. Other varieties, which differ in flavour, are found in Japan’s Okinawa region, Australia and Africa, but owing to its scarcity as the only variety living in Japan’s home waters, and to the small catch, the Ise-ebi commands high prices and is likely to continue to do so.
In his quest to serve the very finest Ise-ebi, Chef Masato Imamura makes a point of visiting nearby fishing ports in person, and takes the characteristics of the Ise-ebi available on the day into account when planning his dishes.
He believes it’s important to talk not just to local fishermen, but to the wholesalers who help supply his kitchen: “Cooking starts with seeking out and carefully selecting your ingredients. It’s a philosophy handed down from one Hiramatsu chef to the next, and I feel choosing the ingredients for myself is part of the pleasure of cooking.”
Chef Imamura has also found unique inspiration while studying the art of choosing seafood fresh from the harbour with the ladies who run the local fish wholesalers: “The Ise-Shima region has an abundance of seafood apart from Ise-ebi, and I believe that seeking out quality ingredients, seeing where they are produced for myself, and building close relationships with local producers, enables me to offer our customers delicious flavours unique to this region.”
“With ormers in summer, and amadai tilefish and akahata groupers in autumn and early winter, among other delicacies, the area has an abundance of unique seafood that further enhances the quality of our dishes all year round.”
Why not visit Ise-Shima and take the opportunity to try not just Ise-ebi, lovingly prepared by our chef, between autumn winter, but the natural bounty and unique specialities of this culinary treasure house through all four seasons.